Imagine embarking on a journey so remote and challenging that it takes multiple flights and nearly a week just to get there. That’s Antarctica for you—a place where adventure begins the moment you decide to go. For me, it was a childhood dream, a chance to test my limits against one of the most unforgiving environments on Earth. Nearly three decades ago, I almost joined the British Antarctic Survey (BAS), but life—and the arrival of my first child—led me down a different path. Instead, I honed my skills as a chef in Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris and London, hotels in Kuala Lumpur and St. Moritz, and even a school in Oxfordshire. But the call of the ice never faded.
And this is the part most people miss: In 2016, I finally took a sabbatical to join BAS as a chef for a summer season. Five years later, I returned for the winter, and last year, I became their full-time catering manager. Now, I oversee the culinary operations across BAS’s five Antarctic stations, where research meets survival, and staff call home. Each year, I spend three months in this frozen wilderness, with the rest of my time at BAS’s HQ in Cambridge. It’s a life of extremes, but one I’ve grown to cherish.
At our main hub, Rothera, the summer kitchen buzzes with activity. Four chefs start the day baking bread—12kg of it daily during peak season. We serve breakfast, lunch, dinner, and the iconic ‘smoko’ at 10 a.m.—a hearty fry-up with bacon rolls, beans, sausages, tomatoes, and soups. But here’s where it gets controversial: With staff burning 5,000 calories a day—twice the average adult’s intake—due to the cold and physical demands, we’re not just feeding people; we’re fueling survival. Sure, it’s a canteen, not a Michelin-starred restaurant, but we take pride in our work. For a British-dominated crew, we whip up comfort foods like toad in the hole, shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, and a Sunday roast. Saturdays? We go all out—tablecloths, candles, and themed dinners. Remember our 1970s party? Let’s just say frankfurters, mash, pineapple, and glace cherries made an… interesting statement.
You might think resources are limited, but here’s the twist: We actually have a wide range of products, though everything arrives frozen and needs thawing. While meat, fish, and dairy retain their quality, fruits and vegetables can lose their crunch. Managing supplies is an art—we get just one delivery a year at Rothera. I order bacon and sausages by the tonne, stockpile chopped tomatoes and tinned potatoes, and fill four 20ft shipping containers with dry goods. Frozen items take up another one or two massive freezers. Our kitchen is professional, cozy, and offers a view of icebergs, sea, and mountains that’s nothing short of breathtaking.
Antarctica is barren, save for emperor penguins, but the peninsula teems with life—penguins, seals, whales, skuas, albatrosses, and petrels. The temperatures? A shock at first. On the ice shelf, winter can plunge to -40°C. BAS equips you with everything you need, but the real lesson is in self-care: wear the right gear, stay dry, eat fatty and sugary foods, and keep moving.
Here’s the thought-provoking part: Living there shifts your perspective. As French philosopher Jean Bodin said, ‘There is no wealth but in men.’ Material possessions lose their luster when you’re recycling, packaging, and shipping waste back home. It’s a stark reminder of how wasteful our Western societies have become. Returning to ‘normal’ life can feel jarring. I often wonder, Do I still fit into this world? But Antarctica teaches you gratitude. It’s a privilege to be there, and I remind myself to savor every moment.
What about you? Have you ever experienced a place that completely redefined your priorities? Share your thoughts below—I’d love to hear your take on this.
